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Dogs & Dining in Varkala

April 5, 2014

Sanchez the beach dogAnother beach dog

My last post told you about our trip to Papanasum Beach in Varkala, state of Kerala.  Herewith a few closing odds and ends about this most delightful trip.  I’ll begin with a dog-bites-man (almost!) story.

At Varkala Beach, like everywhere in India, there are wild dogs – though like everywhere else, there are not wild-wild, they are in a kind of symbiosis with people.  The first day on the beach one of these dogs sauntered over to where we were, gave Kim, Morgan and me a quick look, then settled in for a snooze in the shade of my chair.  This dog, in the left pic above, Morgan named “Sanchez” (sand-chaise, get it?)  Two days later a similar dog came and snuggled up next to a couple sitting close to us on the sand; same time, a whitish dog came and sat in the shade of my chair.

These dogs seemed really mild; you can pat them, scratch them, or just leave them be and they are content.  They will take food if you give it, but they don’t go rooting through your stuff looking for snacks.  Just nice dogs.

Anyway, all of us are sitting all peaceful-like with our doggy brothers and sisters when into the vicinity comes an Indian guy hawking leaflets of some kind.  There’s various such people off by the shops and restaurants, but they are not very welcome on the beach itself.  I take note of this guy, and maybe 50 yards away he offers a leaflet to someone.  Then he takes a step in our direction …

It was that instant the doggy Delta Force leapt into action.  Both my dog and the other couple’s dog tore off at top speed at this hawker, barking like Ravana himself had arrived from Sri Lanka.  The hawker scooted away and the dogs came to a stop.  Hawker gingerly steps in original direction – dogs launch themselves, nipping at his heels, very nearly getting a healthy portion of hawker-calf.  The dogs stood sentinel a few moments more then, satisfied they had properly defended what needed defending, they return back to the shade to sleep.

Not a single other person did they treat this way.  Either the dogs have a refined sense of beach propriety – no hawkers allowed! – or they know this particular guy.  As the hawker stood out of range, other people drew away from him, either having no interest in leaflets and/or not wanting to get caught in a canine crossfire.

Final tally: Beach dogs 1, hawker, 0.  Go, beach dogs!

On to other matters … next, food! Along the edge of the beach is a cliff, and at the top of this cliff is a path of 1-2 kms where there are many shops and restaurants:

Varkala North Cliff

Varkala is on the Arabian Sea, and seafood of all kinds is abundant; each night we saw many lights out to sea that seemed to be a fishing “fleet”, but my camera could not well capture them.

But there’s no difficulty in capturing the spoils of these fish hunters.  Every restaurant along the cliff displays a big table of ice and fresh seafood, intended to entice the hungry diner.  Our favorite was the Sea Queen:

Sea Queen RestaurantFresh fish

Red grouper, red and yellow snapper (but a different sort than we get in the Atlantic), dorado, crab, prawn, squid and octopus … and on other days they had some kind of sword-fish, kingfish, and one specimen a restaurant-tout assured us was barracuda – but they are salesmen and not ichthyologists, so we learned not to put too much confidence in those guys’ fish identification.

But the taste spoke for itself:

Fried squidWhole fish from the tandoor

The Kraken released, into butter/garlic.Seafood, Varkala-style

In order, fried calamari, a snapper done in the tandoor, then octopus (just barely sautéed in butter/garlic, perfect tenderness!), and last – our dinner from a different night – a platter of 2 fish, more calamari, prawns, chips and salad.  I have to say this was all the best seafood we have yet had in India.

Well, there’s more to say about our  trip, but that’s for yet-another post.  I’ll leave you with this, sunset over the Arabian Sea:

Sunset from Varkala

Till next time …

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